1-6-11; Clamping Brake Lines, Battery Box

I started the session with the installation of the LS Billletworks clamps which arrived in the mail the other day (two days after I ordered them!). I ordered a dozen which was just about the right amount, with about 5 of them chamfered for the outside of the rounded crossmemebers. Here’s a close up of each variety and the button head screw it comes with. I have opted to use rivnuts for the installaion, one of which is pictured here (10-24 steel with a seal from McMaster Carr).

Lodestone Billetworks artistry

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are some pictures of the final assembly. I didnt take pictures of everything, just some that I though were interesting. In some cases, getting the arms of the rivnut applier into position was a challenge, and the rivnuts set slightly off kilter. Also, it was hard to get some of the clamps to sit totally flush against the rounded crossmembers with the rivnut sticking out. I plan on bleeding the brakes this weekend when I have some help from Sarah.

brake lines clamped

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

more brake lines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

front right PS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Run from front to back for rear brakes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

rear DS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next, I installed the Breeze forward battery box. My reasoning for locating the battery in the engine compart is threefold: first, the accessibility is much greater compared to the spot the manual would have you use in the upper trunk; second, even though it is only twenty pounds, the battery in this location offsets the already rear heavy car at completion; and third, the heavy guage wire runs (like starter and alternator) will be significantly shorter, hence maximizing battery efficiency and lowering current draw. I ordered a Braille 3121, which I compared to an Odyssey PC680. I have always liked Odyssey batteries, and I use two PC625’s in the plane and have been very happy with them. The Braille, however, trumps the Odyssey in available cranking amps and total Amp/hours, while it weights the same. I found it by searching on the forums and it seemed that many have been very happy with it.

The goal today was to mount the battery box, but not the battery or the wiring for it until I do the rest of the wiring. The reason fo doing it now is that it is much easier without the engine installed. Here is the Breeze kit. Nicely organized with good instructions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

priming and painting. I used a old piece of wire to suspend the parts over a heater to hasten drying.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

clamping into location. Hard to clamp to round crosspieces.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

top view

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After priming and painting the box and the braces, the first step has you locating the box on the passenger side forward crosspiece. The instructions provide measurements from the inside of the large 4″ rail and the bottom of the same, and would have you rivet with 3/16″ rivets the front of the box to the crosspiece after drilling the holes. My feeling was that a rivnut installation would be a more sturdy one, given that the bolts will be loaded in shear and are 1/4″. So I drilled all the holes oversize and installed the rivnuts.

Using the right angle drill attachment to pilot the rear holes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Big holes (forward) for rivnuts

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

rivnut installation tool.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

rivnuts installed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Battery box installed - top view

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

from the rear

The final step of box installation has you use washers as spacers for the rear bolts, using scotch tape to hold them together as a unit while they are being positioned.

 

Once it is finally installed (and yes, I had to enlarge one of the front holes a bit because of some mismatch incurred during the process, AND it is 0.7 deg canted down on the left which I don’t think will matter at all), the box is ROCK SOLID. You could stand on it and it isn’t going anywhere.

 

 

 

The next step on my list at the moment is metal prep. I need to deburr all the holes I drilled and then prime and paint both sides I guess. I am so dreading this; given the outside temperature, paint/primer does spray well or dry nicely. Also, the fumes suck. I am seriously thinking of taking all the parts and having them powder coat them somewhere near here. I know, I know – you wont see them anyway since they will be under carpet or facing the ground. But, the car is clearly going to exposed to the wonderfully corrosive environment of the Northeast (with its rain and salt, etc..), so the more metal protection, the better. Other items that I suppose I could work on include the dash. Installing the Ron Francis harnes right now (as the plans would have you do) makes NO sense – what would I be wiring without the engine? Also, it is hard to tell where the runs go without the transmission in place. Ideas, anyone?

 

One Response to “1-6-11; Clamping Brake Lines, Battery Box”

  1. Jeff Says:

    Like you I started painting my own panels. Eventually I gave up and took them all to the local powder coat guy. The exposed panels in the engine compartment will look great and the unexposed ones will be well protected from corrosion. The best part is no more paint fumes.

    I installed my Ron Frances harness before the engine was installed. With the engine out I had great access to the firewall to wire the starter relay and my battery isolation relay. Running the wires in the transmission tunnel is also easier without the transmission installed. Just run them on the left side like the instructions say. I’d stay away from riveting any of the cockpit or trunk panels until the wiring and plumbing is complete. Running and clamping the wire bundles is easier without the sheetmetal. I used steel rivnuts and adel clamps on the wire bundles. Do you plan any wire mods? Will this be a carb or EFI installation? If you are going carb there is very little engine wiring.

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